No sweat.  Just drop 1,500 and you will be running racks by morning.  But is $1,500 too much for a good table? or worse, too little?  You could get ripped off on a table that will eventually slant worse than the Titanic.  And by cutting corners to save $1,000, you could miss out on the professional playing experience you sought so badly.

What you don't know about pool tables and pool table construction can make the difference between a lifetime of playing enjoyment and years of regret.  If you think you're ready to make a commitment, see if you can answer these questions: Is all slate created equal? Do cushions need to be rubber? What are the best materials for the table frame? What do legs do besides accent the table?

If you're stumped, we're prepared to offer some instruction.  Our four-man team of experts - three nationally renowned retailers and one table designer/manufacturer - will arm you with the knowledge to make an informal purchase.

SLATE
This is where it all begins.  A pool table with out slate is like wine in a box.  Slate rolls truer, last longer and is entirely more durable than a plywood or particleboard bed.  There are manufacturers who sell pool tables without a slate bed, but these products are referred to as "toy" tables and don't merit consideration for serious players.

Our experts lean toward Italian slate as the traditional benchmark, but consumers should know there are three legitimate sources of slate: Italy, Brazil and China.  The secret isn't necessarily where the slate comes from, but how it's honed.

"There is nothing wrong with Brazilian or Chinese slate," say Porter.  "It's all in how it's cut."  In this respect, the Italians have a jump on honing slate, using its techniques that can produce slate level to 4/1000th of an inch.

How thick can slate be?
Conventional wisdom says the thicker the better, but our experts sat that 1-inch-thickness is all you need.  Orner warns that you should watch out for slate that claims to be 1-inch but has been ground to a thickness considerably less.  Rhodes agrees that 1-inch slate is best but would rather go thinner if that ensures a flat surface.

Our experts recommend slate installed in three separate pieces, which allow for more accurate leveling and easier handling.  Also, be wary of slat that's not cured, or dried, properly.  Because Italians have been mining slate longer, they have to dig deeper to get it.  That means it comes out of the ground wetter and needs to be cured before it gets installed.  Some aggressive table makers won't allow the slate to properly cure, thus subjecting it to potential warping over time.

REMEMBER THIS: it's not the rock but how it's cut and cured.  As for 1-inch, three piece slate that's been diamond honed and cured properly.

WOOD
Wood is an essential element in table construction and decoration, unless you're going for the post-industrial concrete-and-steel look.  Wood also determines the cost of your table, depending on species and amount you demand.  Our experts all agree that while a hardwood that might cost more than soft woods and laminates, it virtually guarantees that your kids will be able to inherit the table. (Hardwoods include cherry, hard maple, oak, poplar and walnut).

Concerning the table's frame - the underlying support for the slate, mounted between the slate and outer cabinet - Porter won't stand for anything less than hardwood, "Tables that don't have solid hardwood frames wont' be passed down generation to generation, " claims Porter, "because when you reapply stables in that wood to lay the cloth, it's not going to hold a second or third time and the table will be shot."

Rhodes agrees, warning against purchasing a table with a medium-density fiberboard (MDF) frame: "Never have an MDF or particle board frame." Poplar is generally accepted as the hardwood of choice for internal framing.

The visible parts of the table - rails, cabinet and legs - require a smoother wood that poplar, such as cherry, maple and oak.  While cherry and oak can integrate their "beauty marks," what Orner calls knots, maple is a brighter wood and is classified into two categories. "No. 1 maple has less flaws for clear finishes," says Orner. "No. 2 maple has more beauty marks, used for darker staining."

Of course, not everyone can afford the beauty of a solid hardwood table. According to Orner, laminates can be done right for a shopper who requires slate.  "A lower-priced table using laminates can be a great table," he says.  "What you don't want is a chipboard or particleboard table with a vinyl coating on it.

"One of the biggest mistakes customers make when they walk into a retailer is that they'll stroke the rails, admire the clother color and stand back and get an overall impression of the table" says Rhodes.  "One thing they never do is lay down on the floor and look at the underside of the table."

What you'll find is the support system for the table, including the frame.  The frame is the platform on which the slate rests, supporting the slate, making sure it's level and providing a surface one which to attach the edges to the table cloth.

On your trip under the table, you need to pay attention to the frame materials and how the frame is connected to the rest of the table.  As mentioned earlier, a hardwood frame is the preferred option over MDF's or particleboards.  It's best if the slate is screwed into the frame, and the frame is mounted to the table cabinet.  You should also look for cross-support beams, with a "center beam" running the length of the table and two lateral beams - all attached to the frame.  Again as far as material, you can't go wrong with hardwoods, but some laminates provide comparable strength.

Porter and Orner believe that good frames should possess a "KD" quality (industry standard for easy disassemble, or "knock down") because it allows the retailer or assembler to inspect it in the warehouse fully assembled before bringing it to the customer's home assembling it there.

Orner advises to watch out for frame gimmicks, such as center beams that supposedly offer extra support. "About 30 years ago, we were buying tables from a company that would put a center stretcher down the middle of a 9-foot table," says Orner, "but it did nothing to support the table.

REMEMBER THIS: Look for a frame made from hardwood instead of MDF or particleboard.  If you're not buying a custom table, find out if the retailer assembles each table in its warehouse before delivery.  That way, it can check for defects and correct them before that table appears at your house.

CUSHIONS AND RAILS
Playing pool is nothing without good cushions.  Dead cushions will give an otherwise well-constructed table a bad reputation.

Our experts agree that all manufacturers' "premier" cushions are pretty similar.  Says Orner "The best rubber isn't that expensive. ... If there's a better grade of rubber, everybody would use it, no matter what they call it."  K-66 is the most common profile of cushions although K-55 is also popular.  Both ar sanctioned by the Billiard Congress of America.  A pure gum rubber cushion isn't required for official tournament play, but three of our experts recommend it over rubber/synthetic blend.

Behind every cushion is a good rail keeping it, well, rail-straight.  In a high quality table, the rail also should connect the slate and frame into one solid mass.  Ask your retailer about the hardware used in the rail, ans whether the connecting bolt goes through the slate, locking all the components together.

Says Porter, "The way the rail is fastened to the table is so crucial.  If the rail is fastened securely through the slate and the frame, the better playability you will have.

REMEMBER THIS: Quiz your retailer on how the legs are attached to the body and have them explain why they believe it to be the best.

POCKETS
Compared to the slate and cushions, judging  pockets is easy.  Leather drop pockets with pocket irons actually made of iron are preferred.  Our experts recommend American-made pockets, because the leather quality is higher and you don't run the risk of plastic or aluminum irons that will shorten the life of the pocket.

Most tables come with pockets that match the table style.  If you don't like those pockets, list to Buerstatte's advice and "go with the table manufacturer's recommendation. That way you'll have a pocket that matches the opening.

REMEMBER THIS: pocket openings can vary as much as a quarter inch and still fall within BCA specifications.  Follow the table-makers recommendations, but look for genuine leather and sturdy irons.

CLOTH

There are two types of cloth: tournament-grade, or worsted; and home-grade, aka woolen.  Both are made from a blend of wool and nylon; the tournament-grade generally being 80-90 percent wool, while the home grades can be as much as 35 percent nylon.  Tournament-grade cloth is almost shiny in appearance and feels slick.  Home-grade is called felt for a reason.

Buerstatte likens tournament-grade cloth to racing tires, "It delivers better performance but wears out faster." Tournament-grade cloth has also been known to be difficult to install, and unless you're an expert installer, make sure the person putting on the cloth has worked with tournament -grade cloth before.

Cloth is also weighted by thread count, the higher the better.  Ask for a 21 ounce cloth, and no less that 18 ounce if price is an issue.

REMEMBER THIS: For home use, consider an 80/20 wool-nylon blend in an 18-21 ounce weight.  Any more is overkill.

WHAT KIND OF TABLE DO YOU WANT TO BUY?

Now you know what goes into a table. The question is: what kind of table is right for you? Here are several questions to ask yourself.

• Is pool something I'm taking seriously or is it a diversion when I'm entertaining or bored with TV?
• Will my kids use it as a jungle gym?
• Do I want to impress my neighbors?
• Is this table going to become a permanent part of the house, or will I have to sell it if we have another kid?
• Do I have room for it?
• Can I afford it?

Your job is to determine the pool table's purpose and figure our how much you want to spend. If you're considering buying a durable table, our experts agree that such quality requires good slate, good cushions, a solid frame and superior assembly.

Orner says that beyond the necessary components, you're simply paying for wood and aesthetics.   Solid wood costs more than laminates; inlays cost more than decals; and carved legs cost more that turned legs.